Block paving driveways in Sutton-in-Ashfield and Mansfield.

The pattern is not only about looks. The way the blocks lock together decides how well the surface copes with cars turning on it, so we match the pattern to how the area will be used.

Herringbone block paving

Laid at 45° or 90°, it gives the strongest interlock and resists the twisting of tyres, which is why it is the usual choice for driveways.

Basket-weave

Pairs of blocks laid at right angles for a traditional, decorative look. Best on paths, patios and areas with lighter traffic.

Stretcher bond

Simple running rows, like brickwork. Clean and understated, laid across the direction of traffic on a drive.

Borders and bands

A contrasting edge course frames the drive and holds the field of blocks in place. Bands, curves and a mix of colours can break up a large area.

Most driveway problems, such as dips, rutting and rocking blocks, start underneath. We dig out the old surface and soil to the depth the ground needs, then lay and compact MOT Type 1 crushed stone in layers. Much of the ground around Sutton-in-Ashfield and the rest of Ashfield is clay, which holds water and moves with the seasons, so a well-compacted sub-base matters even more here.

Driveways are normally laid in 60 mm blocks on a screeded bed of sharp sand, held in by edging set in concrete so the blocks cannot creep. The finished surface is vibrated with a plate compactor and the joints are filled with kiln-dried sand, which is what locks the blocks together.

Before we start we set the levels so water runs away from the house and off the drive, towards a border, a soakaway or a channel drain across the entrance. Your free site visit covers all of this, and the written quote says what the job includes.

Permeable block paving lets rainwater soak through the joints instead of running off into the road. The blocks have wider joints filled with fine grit, laid over an open-graded stone sub-base that holds the water and lets it drain away slowly into the ground.

It matters for planning. Covering more than 5 m² of a front garden with a hard surface that drains onto the road needs planning permission, but a permeable surface, or one that drains to a lawn or border on your own land, normally does not. We will tell you at the site visit which approach suits your plot, and it is always worth confirming with your council.

This is where block paving earns its keep. If a utility company needs to dig up the drive, or one area gets stained or damaged, the blocks can be lifted and relaid or replaced individually. Solid surfaces such as tarmac or concrete have to be patched, and the patch usually shows.

Keep a few spare blocks from the same batch when the drive is finished, as colours can vary slightly between batches.

Day-to-day care is simple: sweep the drive regularly, pull out weeds before they root, and top up the jointing sand every few years, because the sand in the joints is what holds the blocks tight.

To clean block paving, brush it with water and a paving cleaner suited to concrete blocks, and treat oil marks promptly. A pressure washer lifts dirt well, but keep it on a lower setting and at an angle so it does not blast the sand out of the joints, and re-sand afterwards.

A block paving sealer is optional. Once the drive is clean and dry, a sealer can help bind the jointing sand, make weeds and stains less likely to take hold, and refresh the colour. Some sealers leave a wet-look sheen and others a natural finish, and every sealer wears over time and needs reapplying, so try it on a small area first.